
Oh does this have the memories flooding back.
I know that view so well, although the little Pedi Beach looks slightly more crowded than I remember it being.
I first “discovered” Pedi back in 1978 when my then girlfriend, Jane, introduced me to the beautiful island of Symi. She had been there the year before and we travelled over from Rhodes (we had been staying in Lindos). I had already read an amazing book called “Bus Stop Symi” by William Travis so I knew a little about this idyllic island. However nothing had prepared me for the breathtaking beauty of sailing into the main harbour, Gialos, in the late morning Greek light. It was love at first sight for me, both of Greece in general and Symi in particular.
Jane was keen to show me the “famed” bus stops. There are five of them dotted round the island. ‘Not in any way strange’ I hear you say. Well in 1977 Symi had no buses and, outside of the main town, very little roads. These bus stops had been placed in the strangest of places – one half way up a hillside. The municipality of Tarpon Springs in Florida, a place with a large Greek (Dodecanesi) population, had donated a sum of money to the island with the specific demand that they “build bus stops to protect the population from the rain”. The Symi council did not question this and simply did as instructed ….. even though they had no buses!
Anyway, that is an aside. One of the bus stops can be found on the “Pedi Road” running from the old town (Horio …. As the are called on virtually every Greek island) down to the small (and I mean small) port of Pedi. Jane and I arrived in the heat of the afternoon and had a lovely late lunch on a taverna at the waterside. Absolute bliss. I promised myself that I would return to this special place. Sadly Jane and I were to part six months later (my fault and selfishness unfortunately) and Jane was to die tragically young a few years later. I returned many times to Symi over the next ten years or so but I never felt at ease in Pedi. It was haunted by Jane’s ghost, her curly blond hair forever blowing in the warm sea zephyrs that bathed the island. Jane’s timeless beauty had, for me, imbued itself onto the place.
In 1995 I returned and stayed in a small house at the far end of the bay. I spent a week on my own just soaking in the atmosphere and mulling over my own past. I guess I went there to bury ghosts but in many ways I only managed to resurrect them. Going on holiday alone was something I had not done for over twenty years but I really needed my space. It is only now, looking back, that the events of that week alone in the Greek sunshine planted the seeds that were to blossom into ITLAD/CTF.
I walked a good deal, up into the thyme laden hills around the island. I also had time to think about myself, my life, and what I wanted it to be. I was 41 and I guess that I was going through the classic “Mid Life Crisis”. I am now sure that subliminally ITLAD/CTF had found a home in my mind. The incident with the dog-earing of the Dawkins book was one of many odd psychological events that took place during that week. I felt really alive and attuned to the world around me. I noticed things that I had never noticed before, colours, sounds, the smells of the Greek landscape. In many ways I felt like Nicholas Urfe, a character in my favourite novel, The Magus by John Fowles. He also “finds” himself whilst on a Greek Island. In the book he meets somebody who, with hindsight, is his Daemon, a mysterious older man called Conchis (Conscious?) who teaches young Nicholas through a charade he calls the “Godgame”. I had taken this book with me to read (for the seventh time) and in the Greek sun it really meant something to me ….. it was, in some odd way, a book that had been written solely for me and solely to be read then. Looking back I wonder if this is when my own Daemon, my own inner Conchis, manifested itself and started me on the life-route that was to lead me to writing ITLAD. The Dawkin’s book incident was simply the most obvious message to my future self because on my return to the UK I was soon to set into action a series of events that were to change my life forever …… and through the pain of those events would rise “Cheating The Ferryman”.
My apologies for such a long, and somewhat personal, posting, but my Daemon seems to be at work today!